How do you celebrate a 2000 plus woman's birthday? That is the quandary that the Birthday Party Coordinators alla Roma have each annum. We found out about the celebration yesterday by chance and we were keen to soak up some cultural knowledge. So I downloaded the program of events so that we could attend the ones we were interested in. We'd sussed out the Metro to Circo Massimo so we were organized on that level. Just in case you aren't privy to the details of this auspicious day it commemorates the date upon which Romulus had built a threshold around his area Rome and his brother broke or crossed it I can't quite remember, anyway it was bad luck so the rules of old dictated that you must kill the intruder, so he committed the old stabaroo. Thus Rome's bday celebrates one twin stabbing the other even though they bonded not only in utero but whilst suckling wolf's milk from il lupo!
There were 48 hours on the Roma Pass so we were up to the second day, I hate wasting money so I tried to get Eric interested in choosing 5 places off the list, but he fobbed me off with saying a) I can't see, b) whatever you choose will be fantastic. Ooohhh I hate it when through transparent false flattery and fake vision impairment the buck stops with me!! Mind you he had been shown the list in Australia as we'll and had used similar feeble excuses. It is so hard for me with my control freak tendencies to hand over the reins, honestly he should be flattered.
Yesterday he'd professed a great interest in the Vittore Emmanuel Monument II so I'd taken that as his choice and for my pick I took Villa Borghese. Only six ideas short but I thought I'd build on it as the day progressed. Both of these Destinations were on the Metro line so it was going to be a sinch! You know that saying about the counting of the chickens before they're hatched? Well it should read this way- Don't count on your plans before they've happened!
We got on the Tram at Re di Roma and had to transfer at Termini. Since we'd seen the monument near the Colosseum we thought we'd take an easy stroll towards Vittore. Somehow I ended up joining a line of pilgrims scaling the steps of San Maria on their knees. Empress Helene had imported these steps which Jesus had walked in Pontius Pilates house. We also attended San Giovanni's Basilica which was a sight to behold. The relics of Peter and Pauls skulls are above thr altar. Slightly gruesome but the artwork was amazing. After we'd been satiated with splendor we asked for directions to Vittorie Emmanuelle, the man in the tabbachi poohpoed our idea of a Metro and gave us walking directions.
So we followed his instructions which were fine but helllloooo why on earth would it be called the Vittore Emmanuel station if it wasn't near the monument?? Don't mess with my head Roma! So that's how we ended up at the St Mary of Maggiore church, I remember her mentioned when I attended St Monica's College in my teens. I took lovely photos there, it was extremely peaceful. Eric was protesting regarding churches, it's so annoying when there are 500 plus churches and you're with a philistine! He will spend hours walking when he needs a tabbachi. Since I'm writing this blog in long gone retrospect, we made a deal yesterday that for every cigarette I get to go into a church. Hmmmm hope it works. Anyway we had our picnic lunch in the overgrown park near the church. Supermarkets have such fabulous cheap food here and we were a bit over the same pizzas and pastas available near the touristy sites.
Our selected birthday events were coming up so back on Metro line B to Circo Massimo. To my surprise there weren't many people there maybe just 200 at the most at first, and maximum amount under 1000. I guess it's like any city, everyone's too busy at work or just doesn't have that national pride. We were very lucky as we had a grassy spot were I spread my blanket and went to sleep, Eric watched whatever he was watching, when I woke up there were gladiators fighting and horses galloping it was all very exciting as we could go right up to the fence. The event was finished by about 6pm so we were finished early. We wanted to try Ruki's dinner recommendation and wifi was difficult to access here so we went to trustworthy Termini to make our plans. Once settled in at our favourite cafe I worked it all out. $7 by taxi though sounded better than walking as my legs were so sore.
Anyway down to the taxi rank we go, 5 million people in line but why are the taxis not taking fares? I soon discovered why. The head honcho hustles over. I say "Quanto costa di Monti?"
"€20 per te"
"Bah no internet dice €7 porco miseria "
Ofcourse I was sent to the end of the line! As we approach the end of the line another one approaches. I state I'm only paying €7 to Monti. Lots of arms flying around two of them mine. Eric very placidly enjoying a tranquila cigarette. So an armed soldier who is there on anti terrorism control joins in, speaking angrily in Italian.
I said sorry I don't speak Italian I'm an Australian tourist. So he waves his rifle at the taxi driver and shouts at him to get lost. He kindly asked me the name of the restaurant and looked it up on his phone and said ten minutes easy walking and gave us directions. So problem solved, off we went by reliable Aussie Foot Falcon!
I put 20 minutes on my timer as a checkpoint to ask for directions again on case we were lost. This went off in front of a deli where we had a little snackerel of marinated octopus which he gave us for free. However his freshly baked slices got the better of us and we shared one. Directions given to a street behind us, off we set and were soon in Monti.
I was allowed into the church which was non touristy and beautiful. The piazza was full of families , parents drinking vino, kids playing soccer (it was nearly 9pm). I'd heard about this particular piazza on Rick Steves it was great to find it. A few streets up and we'd found our destination MarioLina. It was packed luckily we managed to get a table. Due to its Trip Advisor notoriety it was very popular we quickly ordered our ravioli and meatballs ( 2 seperate dishes) both were very delicate and very special. We were glad that we'd made the effort and were also excited about the whole adventure of getting here!
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