Rick Steves who everyone now knows is my hero, had recommended going to Agrigento as a must do activity in Sicily as these Greek ruins are in better condition than the ruins in Greece plus they are a lot less crowded. And as I am writing this in past tense, perhaps in Agrigento they have less signposts and there is probably a group of tourists lost on a regular basis. I was so proud of hubster he was not to difficult to rouse this morning and we were at the station by 7.20!
It was an interesting journey as we were in a carriage with a school excursion and honestly these kids were screaming brats. The teachers were in another carriage and would come occasionally to photograph them. They obviously don't care about being role models out in public! The boys were running around, jumping on the seats , swinging on the poles and the girls were not far behind them!
We got off the bus and bought tickets to the ruins, the botanical garden and the museum. I presumed the later was somewhere on the grounds. Through the boom gate we went into thr garden. I found the woman quite rude as soon as Eric switched from Italian into English she ignored us and spoke over the top of us in Italian to more important visitors. The gardens were watered using flood irrigation and the loveliest aroma of orange blossom was present.
Picnicking under the blossoms was lovely. We'd bought some baked goods at the railway station fearing that there might not be any food to purchase. It was extremely restful, when ambling down the path we saw a sign pointing to the Temple of Vulcan so we crossed over the railway line to get there, it was very impressive. Some vain girls asked me to take a photo of them. It turned out that they thought they were on a modelling shoot and that i was there official photographer. So i had to wait while they clinbed the temple and tried pole dance moves on the BC columns. When they were finally satisfied and had checked the photos they said " hehehe we look awesome, thanks, bye!"
Not even a teeny smidgen of a thought that these two unawesome people might like an ordinary snapshot. Anyway it was a stunningly beautiful day and we had heaps to see so we headed down a pathway which looked well trodden. We walked along the tiny little path for about 500m then it petered out into tall grass. So although we were not in the correct spot we remained positive. There was a well utilised dirt road next to the railway line so we followed this, Eric merrily whistling. The road was indeed a main thorough fare for the farmer but however not for Australian tourists.
As we gazed across the railway line we saw the famous ruin which graces every tea towel featuring famous Italian icons. Still not deterred we retraced our steps until we'd exited the gardens we walked along its boundary until we reached the Temple of Zeus , photos were taken. The famous temple was still visible in a north east direction but the way east seemed to be blocked by fallen columns. Ahead of us however I could see lots of people so we joined them. None of them could tell us how to get to the Temple of Juno. I saw the gate being unlocked by someone official for a woman in a wheelchair. I pointed to and asked Temple of Juno . He nodded, si , si.
We were now on an asphalt road with traffic we walked to the boom gate near the entrance but were refused entrance. This was only the entry via taxi we had to go back to the car park where we'd bought the tickets 5 and a half hours ago. A taxi driver offered his services €10 to drive us through the gate. I in my scroogyness said no.
So we walked back a kilometer. They directed us to the walk beside the botanical garden however we'd been there before and ended up at Zeus's temple. I was starting to hyperventilate we waited for a temole shuttle bus which didn't turn up. I'd had enough, Eric said we had to bite the bullet and catch a taxi so that's what we did.
Taxied up to the Temple of Juno entrance we finally handee in our tickets after 6 hours. From the temple of Juno we walked to the famous one whose name eludes me. Now to the right i saw a tiny path with an arrow pointing to the Temple of Zeus a few metres where hours ago I was taking photos. I shrieked something unpleasant about the lack of clearly marked signage. Hissy fit over we walked along the scenic city wall of Agra, the Greeks had put their tombs in the wall here so that the dead had the amazing view of the sea. The path ended back at the bus stop so we joined an English man standing there.
Bit by bit others came and asked in German, Spanish, Italian or English if this was the bus stop. I advised them in their lingo of the anticipated time of arrival. When the bus came the illmannered horde barged our line of three to the side and started boarding. I was not in a feel good type of mood and grabbed onto the door and staked my claim. Blocking two shocked large young germans I bellowed " Come on Eric it's our turn, the English man had been pushed into the ditch and was climbing out. I felt really sorry but the crowd surged in after us. He finally got on, his once jaunty cap askew and his jacket dirty with grass and rocks. I apologised to him for the state of affairs he was very gracious about it.
Now you'd think all was going well and you are right. Although we didn't get off at the train station as we hadn't recognized the side street it was on, a kindly bus driver who was starting on a new route dropped us off there. We had 40 minutes before the next train so we went to the tabacchi where we'd picked up our lunch and tickets in the morning.
Aperol Spritzs were €2.50 and we really deserved a treat. I ordered them in Italian and the lady was so pleased with my efforts that she suoersized us and gave us big bowls of peanuts, pretzels and chips. An American older couple came in and blasted a barrage of questions and demands at the man serving . He just shrugged and beckoned over the woman. They said something rudely about why on earth don't they bother learning how to speak English and ordered their gelato. I was touched to see that when I ordered my gelato it was a skyscraper.
The American couple were not impressed needless to say I was beaming with joy. However the fates weren't finished with me yet. We took the lift down to the platform as my legs were a bit wobbly. I secured us a good seat, I beckoned to my husband and even opeded the door to say that the train was about to leave. He continued busying himself with his tobacco. An electric beep went off and so did the train, he sprang into motion and banged on the door I pressed the open button to no avail. So there I was on the train with a phone which was fast running out of battery and a giant gelato. So I ate my gelato and fell asleep. Two hours later we were pulling in to Palermo centrale it was too late for me to use the convenience. Damn!
I had a bit of charge left and called Rosario the airbnb host. He told me he'd meet me at the apartment in 20 minutes with the spare key. I wasn't allowed to use the toilet at McDonald's or the station as I had no money so I thought I'll walk home get the key and surely Eric will come to the apartment. However after almost an hour Rosario hadn't arrived and nor had Eric. Remember this was not an ambient place to be stranded . The dealers looked at me with suspicion. I was a scura ( dark skinned person - derogatory term we'd been called by our host Enrica in Torre del Lago Puccini ) dressed all in black leaning inna very gangster manner against the wall.
I was quite frantic I was busting to use the loo plus I was genuinely worried. I walked back to the station expecting to see Eric but he was no where to be seen. Luciano was still at his street corner. I asked him if he'd seem marito he said no. It was very hard to explain but he understood that he'd (Eric) missed the train at Agrigento. He said " tranquila" and put his arm around me and took me to the station master . The station master couldn't speak English but he called out Enrico Spigariol on the speakers and rang Agrigento, but the station master there said the platform was empty.
I had 5 percent charge so I rang Rosario who seemed very annoyed that I hadn't waited for him. Luciano told him to come to the station. Once Rosario came there was a heated concerned discussion in Italian, I told them I would go to McDonalds just in case Eric was there and I was correct. He'd thought I'd wait for him at Maccas forgetting I had no money.
Anyway we were reunited, Luciano gave him a stern talking to in Italian we had hugs all-round and planned to catch up in the morning for a coffee. Rosario drove us home he was very displeased that I hadn't waited for an hour and said he had an appointment. I was very pleased he'd driven us home and actually burst into tears once I'd climbed to the fifth floor and peed.
Eric took me to dinner it was now about 10.30 the restaurant was around the corner from our street and was very posh with cloth napkins and knives I'd never seen before. The kitchen closed at 11 but they were so kind and stayed back for us . We had a lovely roast lamb as well as freshly made tagliatelle amongst other things. They gave us complimentary wine and I think they were relieved that we declined dessert as they were probably not getting paid for staying back. We strolled around the piazza for our constitutional and were happy that our day had ended on such a lovely note.
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