Cinque Terre is undoubtedly one of the world's most traveled destinations, it was once seen as a mecca for trekkers but now young and old holiday makers or day trippers flock there by the thousand each day. We had heard how gorgeous the cliffside houses were and just how magic this place was, but nothing prepared me for the actual physical shock I had when I came to the second town Vernazza, I actually gasped and couldn't stop grinning when we came out of the railway station and I beheld the wonder of the sparkling Tyrrhenian Sea.
Our airbnb host had suggested that we travel up to Monterossa first and then catch the train backwards to the normal first town. Economically we didn't think it through. We should have bought a return to La Spezia and from there bought the 5 Terre pass. We spent so much money unnecessarily. Due to the fact that we are so far from Sienna, we might end up going back to The Cinque Terra again or go up to Genoa.
As the train screeched around the corner we stood up to exit with the hoards. Monterosso was our first stop we were delighted by the huge rock outcrop freestanding in the sea with a grotto in it, Eric climbed to the top of it after we'd had coffee and limone torta at the scenic restaurant overlooking the water. I purchased some puzzle cards and then we caught a bus to the city centre. The blue and white striped church looked very naval and I wondered was this the theme that sailors and gondoliers have taken their blue and white stripes from?
Frozen limoncello in hand we strolled along the tiny cobbled streets which were as colorful as Burano, five souvenirs later we had to exercise self control and move on to the next town. I've already mentioned the impact Vernazza had on me. At work we did a personal strengths quiz and my strongest quality is "Appreciation for beauty in Nature " - and I must admit I agree with this analysis. The terraced olive groves here are visible from Monterosso and the olive oil was sublime. We had an extremely expensive lunch by Italian standards (i had mussels ripiena - stuffed with herby bread crumbs and Eric had swordfish ) and our favorite aspect of it apart from the ambiance was the olive oil we sprinkled on the complimentary bread! I later read it is seen as one of the best quality olive oils in Italy!
Our third stop Corniglia was adorable with a church dating back to 1267. Eric didn't want to go in as he was all churched out! Haha wait til we get to the Vatican. The piazza which was quite a climb up the steep mountain was overlooked by the parish church of San Pietro. We went to Caffè Matteo there which had no cover charge, free wifi and proper toilets. I'd peeked in at the council toilets but just cannot do the hole in the ground ones - sorry to mention this unsanitary issue but honestly I'd rather explode! However we had a great coffee with a little apricot biscotti and felt at peace with the world. Not for long though as Eric wanted to walk down to marina. I said I'd only go down 100 steps which was very hard on my calves and offered to lay in the sun while he walked the rest. He didn't like that idea so we both just sat there enjoying the view. After the intense hike back up we availed ourselves of Caffè Matteo's wifi and amenities again and then caught the bus back to the train station. Oh i forgot to mention that we had a gelati waffle cone here with the 2nd best gelati on our journey so far. (The 1st being in Florence from the place with granita and olive oil gelato )
Tabachi was the of the upper most importance to Eric when we reached Maranola. I was more interested in sniffing the lemons and lemon scented soap. The campaniele (bell tower) overlooked the steep street where he found his mecca. It was getting quite cold now as the sun was going down. I sat on a bench and watched people going about their business as Eric smoked his lungs out inside the tabachi having a big chat in English with a guy inside. It was nearly time for the train so we walked back through the tunnel to the station. At some point in Mararola I bought a cone of fried anchovies they were worth every expensive cent - €8.50, I had to have them they are part of the whole experience! Eric opted to eat the picnic I'd packed instead. I'd made tremezzine - club sandwiches - and packed those long stick crackers with pancetta to wrap around them as well as mandarins and half a kilo of strawberries. Anyway i digressed and we were once more aboard the train.
As soon as we got off at the last village - Riomaggiore, I had bean envy. No sooner had we walked through the tunnel when I spied a man with a giant bean sitting at the osteria on my left. I was rooted to the spot and refused to walk any further until I'd had a pile of giant beans too! I asked for a table in my stilted Italian and soon we were seated and given complimentary beans, they were the gratis bar snack so I was forced to order a passion fruit mohito in honour of my second big sis who loves mohitos. It wasn't even happy hour and it was only €6, and I must say it packed a punch. I felt like having a nanna nap right there and then. By the way the beans were terrific and I nibbled them alla Tom Hanks nibbling corn in Big!
Eric - who in 12 years has categorically refused to watch the sunrise in Australia - was hell bent on watching it set in Italy with vigour newly discovered in his motherland he bounded down a narrow criminal looking covered alley and up the cliffside path. I - looking like an Italian 80 year old nonna albiet clad in jeans and a singlet ( but hey it was a black one) dragged myself up to the photographic vantage point just in time to take some killer shots.
We trudged back down the cliff face through the tunnel and caught the train. The carriage was empty apart from us and 5 minutes or so later we were in La Spezia. We went to buy our return tickets to Torre, all the automatic sales points were broken so I joined the huge line at the human desk. As we were in line the attendant on the right closed his blind and shouted chiusa dieci minuti!! By the grace of God we were the last people to be served. There were at least 20 very angry or distressed tourists. We had a 2 and a half hour wait but hey that's why they have Maccas at train stations right??? Due to no reason I ended up looking after a lady of the nights shopping while we waited at Maccas and she did business, it made for an interesting night! !!! We were on bed just on 1230pm!
Wow so nice mum
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